🔗 Share this article

When assembling a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred venues. However, tucked prominently among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying area of northern London.

A Shocking Accolade

This compact Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the owners completely shocked.

“I’m completely shocked,” remarks a family member, alluding to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their modest restaurant securing such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its earlier feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the food, and this establishment more than succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent texture.

It is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I am very pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s success is likely to resonate beyond its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this gastronomic achievement.